Budget: A Few Last Things


Clear Coat Finish, Modeling Putty and Sculpting Tool

At this point there's only a few more things needed to complete the basics of painting and modeling supplies. Really, a couple of these things may not be necessary at this point. The modeling putty and sculpting tool may not be needed until you get some metal models.

Clear Coat Finish
You will really want to put a clear coat on your models if you plan on playing games with them. A clear coat will protect your models and the paint job. Testor's Dullcote and Citadel Matte Varnish are a couple sprays you can use as a clear coat to finish off your models. These two products I mentioned are matte, meaning they won't leave a shiny appearance. If you want a particular part of your model to have a shiny appearance I'd recommend picking up a bottle of gloss varnish and use a brush to apply it to the particular part after you have sprayed it with the matte varnish. Most of the paint producers, Citadel, Vallejo, etc. make a gloss brush on varnish.

I don't have a lot of experience with the two sprays above, but after doing a little reading on these items it seems the Citadel brand Matte Varnish spray isn't that good. I picked up a bottle of Testor's Dullcote for $4. This particular product is no longer available in Europe due to the EU banning a certain chemical that is used in it's production. I've also heard that Krylon makes a good spray varnish and is probably the cheapest. You can find it at most home improvement stores, but I think it's only available in North America.

Modeling Putty and Sculpting Tool
Modeling putty, also called "green stuff," comes as two separate strips of putty, a blue strip and a yellow strip. Once the two are combined the magic begins to work, it turns green and begins to harden. It takes about two hours to completely harden, which means you have two hours to do with it what you want. It's mostly used to fill in gaps on metal models, but you can sculpt a complete model out of the stuff. It's packaged and sold by GW for $8 for a small amount. You can also get about four times the amount GW sells from Gale Force Nine for $18. I bought a package of GF9 putty.

A sculpting tool is used to spread and manipulate the modeling putty. This keeps from leaving fingerprints and helps smooth the putty out. GW sells a tool for $6, GF9 sells a 3 piece tool set for $12, and if you're really into sculpting you can get this nice 12 piece set pretty cheap. I picked up the Citadel tool, because that's all I could find in my area. You can check out this article for tips and tricks using green stuff and a sculpting tool.

Odds and Ends
You may also want to pick up a few more things for your work space such as shelving. I had a local carpenter put together a simple shelf out of some scrap wood he had lying around. It was only $6, but something you could easily do if you have the tools yourself.



I also bought a couple of flatware trays at a flea market for $5. I had originally intended to store my paint on them, but that was before I decided to go with Vallejo paints, which didn't fit. However, I will use it to put my infantry size models on it for display. I picked up a cheap cork board as well for $10. I put a color wheel, mixing charts, and a Citadel to Vallejo equivalency chart on mine. You could also use it for inspiration by putting pictures from magazines or the internet on there.



That does it for this budget, it came to $49. That pretty much does it for buying painting and modeling supplies, from here on out you will just need to replenish what you have or maybe pick up a few new colors of paint. There will still be more budgets coming, we still have models to buy as well as gaming accessories.

A Note
As you can see, I changed the name of my blog from Warhammer 40k on a Budget to Wargaming on a Budget. The reason is, I'm branching out. It's going to take me a while to buy all the models to make my 40k army, but I'm itching to play something. I've been checking out another game recently, Warmachine/Hordes by Privateer Press. From what I've seen it's a fun game and pretty cheap to get into. Most games are 500 point games, you can get a battle box of 350 points for only $50 and then build to 500 points for less than $100 total.

I had some credit at a game store I used to frequent and used that to buy a Legion of Everblight Hordes army. The local store is starting up a WM/Hordes league next Tuesday that I hope to get in on. I will try to get some pics up of those models as well as my Chaos Space Marine squad that's about half way done. Until then...

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4 comments:

  1. JPL Says:

    Kosh,

    be very careful with undiluted Dullcote right out of the bottle, you will need to dab it on very carefully or you will smear your paint job, undiluted DC can look great but you need to experiment with techniques and what works with your models. Other options are to dilute it with the thinner that testors makes specifically for Diluting Dullcote, diluting it 3 to 1 (thinner to DC,) gives you a brushable consistentcy but requires several coats. You can also gloss finish it first then dullcoat straight from the bottle but they are two decidely different looks.

    The Dullcote Spray can is best but only usable when the humidity is very low otherwise is leaves a terrible "dusty" finish that wont come off. Depending on where you are located (geographically) you can judge when the spray is usable or not. I'm in chicago so I'll spray all my models from Oct-April, but once May hits I won't go near the stuff, until the 1st frost in the fall. Good Luck-

  2. Kosh Says:

    Thanks for the advice. I live in Tennessee where the humidity is almost always high. I'll definitely have to test it out before I spray a finished model.

  3. Space Hulk Enthusiast Says:

    Nice work area.

    When it comes to spray varnish, I use Krylon Matte Finish. It comes in a spray that you can pick up at most art/craft stores like Michaels. I don't remember how much it costs, but I think it's right around $4. I've found this stuff to be great and use it exclusively.
    As for spraying your models during differnt times of the year, I have a "portable spray booth" that I use inside to spray my guys when the weather is not cooperating. The number one cause of problems with coating your models... that I've found, is not shaking the spray paint long enough before spraying. Sounds silly, but it's true.

  4. Kosh Says:

    That's a good point, Ron. I've ran into that before and I always shake the can for a good five minutes now. I may have to try out the Krylon when this Testor's runs out.